Cleared for Departure

Foss Means Waterfall

To count the waterfalls in this country is an exercise in very large numbers. Cubic kilometers of water must drain from the highlands, where the glaciers and trolls live, and flow to the sea. Given such high contrast topography, waterfalls are around every corner.

This is the main falls at Seljalandsfoss.

Along Iceland’s southern coast, you can stop and gawk at many. The more popular ones are easy to access. Parking is available. Maybe even a bathroom. Have a coffee while enjoying liquid dihydrogen oxide pouring from on high. More spectacular waterfalls exist, but often require a hike or a boat to access. Some are located on private land and inaccessible up close. This does not stop some people from parking and walking toward them. Some farmers are cool with this, though don’t be a jerk.

Most of the waterfalls in this section of Iceland formed via the same process. Once upon a time, the land was covered in a very heavy glacier. We’re talking about 10,000 years ago during the last ice age. Their weight pushed the land down. As the Earth warmed and the glaciers retreated, the land rebounded. This created the cliffs over which many of these waterfalls cascade. The flat land from the cliffs to the sea used to be a shallow sea bed. Hence why it’s flat. The ocean buffed the rough edges smooth. Now it’s where most of the population lives. This sharp contrast from near flat to sheer vertical creates breathtaking scenery.

What are those sea caves doing a kilometer high? Well, they used to be at sea level when a heavy glacier sat on top. The flat land created by the rebounding is fertile and good for farming. As rock has rained down, it creates the slopes. The fact these slopes are covered in grass continuously means a rock slip hasn’t occurred in over 100 years.

Whether liquid or solid, water is a remarkable carver of rock. U-shaped valleys indicate a glacier came through, while v-shaped valleys indicate a river. It’s fun to speculate on which form of water formed which valley, though, spoiler alert, in Iceland it’s mostly glaciers. Evidence of water carving this landscape is everywhere you look.

Photo by RBD

Secondary foss at Seljalandsfoss
Secondary foss at Seljalandsfoss

Unless you’re prepared to hike, the more accessible waterfalls will be crammed with people from large tours. They are as interesting to watch as the water. Still, it is possible to find a quiet space to sit and contemplate the futility of it all.

Skógafoss is very well-known. Nearby is a camping ground, hotel, and restaurant. Generally speaking, the bigger the parking lot, the more people will be soon joining you.
This waterfall we actually went under. I’ll share video of it tomorrow.

One neat thing about Iceland is how it caters to different travelers. New Zealand was like this. Mobility issues? Well, you can see these natural features from a car or bus. Advanced hikers? Well, have we got some treats for you but it will take more work. Got money? Here’s a helicopter tour of an active volcano. Budget traveler? Here are many other options to chose.

No matter who you are, there is something to enjoy.

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