We ventured into the car once more to drive to Siracusa.  With a better handle on the speed limits and road rules, or lack thereof, I am getting better at driving here.  

That said, I’m pretty sure I drove in a ZTL, or Zona a Traffico Limitato.  Rookie move on my part.  Cameras grab your plate and electronically send a ticket.  The purpose of these zones is to reduce congestion and pollution.  Something similar was suggested by New York’s city council, but these ideas never get very far.  Personally I’d love fewer cars in my life, but congestion pricing ends up being a tax for those who live further away from city centers, usually poorer folks, who may also lack access to mass transit. 

The ZTL I ran afoul of was on Ortigia, an island off the coast of Siracusa, which is the city’s historical center.  Many old buildings and landmarks dot the island — fountains, theaters, churches, temples … the usual fare.  People actually live here as well, and the place feels more like a community than some of the smaller towns we’ve visited.  Certainly more going on here.  The University of Catania (and I think Siracusa) have an outpost at the tip of the island, for studying architecture.  Man, did I major in the totally wrong thing. 

My compatriots wandered the market, buying things from mostly non-Italian street vendors.  It’s one of the only times I’ve seen immigrants while here.  I just took pictures while they shopped.

The streets are narrow and cozy.  Most cars stick to the perimeter, and only very small cars fit in these alleyways.  

We happened upon the Leonardo and Archimedes Museum, showcasing two of Siracusa’s favorite sons.  Many of Leo’s inventions were built and on display.  I was surprised to see how much stuff we still use today, particularly in my field, that are essentially unchanged.   

After Ortigia we visited another archeological park, where the famous Ear of Dionysus rests.  Doesn’t look like an ear to me, unless elves were around in ancient times.  I mean … I’m not an expert in symbolism, but I know a yonic shape when I see one.  Not sure what a yonic shape is?  Look at this picture and give it a guess.  I’m betting you can figure it out.   It’s not an ear.

Supposedly, Dionysus tortured dissidents inside, and their amplified screams carried across town and kept people in line.  Some say it was used as water storage.  Other people aren’t sure.  The whole thing is a bit of a geological mystery.  How did the rock become so polished?  What did people do in there?  Is it man-made or naturally occurring? 

Next to the Ear is a working theater, carved from the same limestone.  RBD and I saw Oedipus Rex here on the trip we met, back in college.  Un-surprisingly, not much has changed. 

I would like to take a moment and recognize our poor rental car.  It’s been kicked around.  I scraped the side, but other dents (including a massive one in the hood) have appeared during our tenure together … who knows where from.  Poor little thing, not meant for the harsh realities of Italian parking.  Thank God I took out the “Super Coverage,” which means I’m liable for none of it. 

Our time together is coming to a close.  Our regular lives await us.  I got a call from the surgery center, while here in Sicily.  The nurse asked about my medical history; one question struck me as odd, “Have you traveled outside the U.S. in the past 30 days?”  I neglected to mention where I was and just said no.  She seemed unconcerned.